St. Bees beach apparently
occasionally can get some pretty big surf with the right conditions. The surf
is a beach break with the best waves produced when the tide is coming in, after
strong westerly or south-westerly winds have died down. This information came
from Magicseaweed.com a site I have used regularly when pursuing surf in the
sea. Magic seaweed was saying there was going to be a 4-5ft swell coming in on
this day. In the morning we had arranged to meet to catch these conditions and
we did exactly as planned. However, what we got was a big menacing surf with
short intervals, not ideal for learning or developing skills. Tom and Mike
ventured into the white water first, both new to surfing on boards they were
thoroughly challenged. After a few attempts they came out seeking advice but
nothing I knew about surfing or the sea would help on this occasion. They
struggled to get themselves and their boards over the whitewater that came
after the waves had broken, being pushed back again and again. What they needed
was PADDLES!
Luckily on this day I had anticipated
these conditions and brought all my gear. Having watched Tom and Mike get
thrown about for a short while I was intimidated by the waves. From the car
park you could still hear the roar as each wave broke. I sat by myself in my
kayak on the pebble beach for a while composing myself, trying to get in the
right mental attitude for going straight into whitewater that would push me to
my limits. Tyler Bradt, an accomplished whitewater kayaker, said in an
interview
"Successful whitewater kayaking is 50% mental and 50% skill. Holding your nerve in and staying focused in these whitewater situations is key to applying your skills to the water your on at the time."
As a warm up exercise I envisaged
myself crashing through the waves moving my arms in the motions I would need to
perform. I imagined this in slow motion like you would see in the latest viral
online whitewater paddling video. In my head I go through multiple waves
speeding up the actions each time I go though a wave, this wakes up all the
muscles needed for paddling. I also remind myself of the steps need to surf the
waves back in. Paddle fast to get to the same speed as the wave, throw your
weight forward to drop in then lean/edge in the direction you want to travel
along the wave. I must look pretty
stupid doing it but it’s my thing.
After a short time of composure I
moved into a position to quickly enter the water. I discussed with Tom and Mike
that I was going to need a lull in the wave size to get out. I picked my
moment, "Now Now Now!" Tom and Mike thrust me down the pebble beach
and into the water. Straight away I was met by breaking waves or "the
soup" trying to push me back onto the beach. I fight through it, getting
out, this was the easy bit that I was pretty comfortable with, coming back in
on the waves the right way up, is what I struggle with. Due to the messiness of
the waves coming in it was hard to judge where was a safe place to sit and
select a wave to catch, so I caught the first one I was prepared for and it
turned out to be a monster.
For my ability in surf kayaking
this wave was “pretty stinking big”. Due to my positioning, I didn’t need to
paddle fast to get this one. Nor did I need to put my weight forward to drop
in. Due to the size and steepness of this monster, coming down the face of the
wave I had to lean as far back as possible and pull my legs up so not to nose
dive. I managed to stop myself from nose-diving and surfed the wave straight
until it broke. I then comfortably "Bongo slide" in the soup, nearly
ending up right back on the beach and into the groyne! Luckily I avoided these.
I paddled out once more and selected a further wave to catch.